Rottnest Island

A short ferry ride away sits Rottnest Island, which must be one of the best, if not the only, state-run holiday islands. The island has a somewhat sad history, having been used as a prison for Aboriginal people for a period in the early 20th century, but then was taken over for defensive purposes during World War II and then some visionary decided that this wonderful holiday destination should become state property rather than being privatised to make sure that ordinary citizens could enjoy it in perpetuity.

Another visionary decision was to keep the island largely free of cars. There is a public bus, a small train line and a few utility vehicles as needed, but the holiday visitors primarily use bicycles to get around the 20 km2 island and visit its many beaches and snorkelling spots.

The first spot was neat because you could snorkel around a small shipwreck, a boat that came free of its moorings in Fremantle and ended up sunk just off the coast of Rottnest. Above water, it looked like a rusty boat hull, but underneath it was a seagrass and coral garden that was barely recognisable as a boat.

The second spot was really cool, with a range of different corals and an underwater trail to follow - although the sea had worn away most of the words on the underwater signs. The temperature was perfect for beaching, if a bit hot for cycling. Rio had to work hardest on his little bike with no gears, and there were a few reasonable hills, but the occasional well-timed appearance of candy seemed to help him overcome the challenge.

And even better-timed appearances of cute quokkas by the side of the road helped morale too.

On the other hand, the appearance of the venomous long black slithery dugite snake was less welcome for some of us snake fearers.

Our flat was pretty nice, with a view of the dunes and ocean. Chris and I got out for a sunset walk while the kids vegged out. We were a little worried by a search party for a missing 5 year old who had wandered off during a scavenger hunt from a gaggle of 20-odd kids, but we assumed she was found as the calls died down.

Sunday we started with a visit to the WWII very large gun (9 metres) at Oliver Hill. The tour guide had an unusual accent, Aussie with a hint of North American, and turned out to be from Nanaimo but living in Perth for 25 years. The mechanics of the massive gun were highly impressive, and it was easy to imagine the tough routines of the military personnel working there.

Another dugite siting very close by, and a few massive spiders. Good views from the hills, reminding us of how surprisingly close Perth is yet feeling miles away from the busy city bustle.

After the military site, we cycled back into Thomson Bay and the kids got to play in the inflatable water park in the heat of the midday sun while Chris and I watched from the shade sipping iced coffees. Some traditional Aussie pies for lunch at the bakery, and then a final snorkel at The Basin. Saw a stingray and some different fishies.